HERE’S THE HOW TO:
Stuff you’ll need:
Here’s how to make the single bead that hangs down in the cluster. Make a total of six with this pattern:
What You Need
What To Do
Here’s what I used:
22 gauge wire (JoAnn)
round nose pliers (JoAnn)
wire cutters (JoAnn)
outline of Indiana (found here)
card stock (Walmart)
chain necklace (Etsy)
I started by searching Google images for an outline of Indiana. Then I scaled down the image to 2″ by 2″ in Photoshop and printed it onto card stock. I grabbed my wire and made a loop at the top for the necklace with my round nose pliers. My loop wasn’t made using a specific looping method. But if you YouTube search “simple wire loop” you’ll find a bunch of examples. Plus, it’s easier to watch a video than to try to decipher photos. Make sure you make a big enough loop to feed your necklace through.
After I made my loop, I started to trace my Indiana shape with the wire and my round nose pliers. I used masking tape to secure the wire as I went along.
For the Ohio River part of my state, I gently bent the wire with my round nose pliers. Sometimes I would hold the wire in place with the pliers and bend the wire with my free hand. Trial and error, people, trial and error.
Be careful when doing twists and turns. If you put too much stress on the wire it will snap. Here’s your proof:
After tracing the state, I removed the masking tape. Then I made a couple loops around my original loop and cut the wire with my wire cutters. Since I was putting this on a necklace, I gently turned my loop to face the opposite direction so the pendant would look right once I fed the necklace through the loop.
Gather your supplies
Prepare main hoop form
First, a side note—these earrings take a lot of time and patience. If you don’t have some basic wire wrapping experience, this project might be too challenging, so practice your basic loops and wire wrapping chain before attempting this project. Or, feel free to jump right in and try it—just be prepared to waste a little wire in your learning curve (and consider using silver instead of gold if this is your first try, it is less expensive).
The first thing we need to do is create two perfect round hoops as the main body of the earrings ( to which we will wrap fine wire and attach our other beads). To create a round shape, use any household item as a form to wrap your wire around. I used a small aspirin bottle. Select a bottle that has the size of hoop you want for your pair of earrings.
Wrap the heavier gauge gold wire tightly around the bottle. At the point where the wires cross, bend one end of wire up at a right angle to become the stem (you will attach this to the earring component) and the other end (tail) you will wire wrap around the stem. Wrap the tail around the stem a few times and cut off the excess with your flush cutters.
Make both earrings at the same time at this step, so you can be sure they are exactly the same size.
Wrap fine gold wire and attach seed beads to wire hoop form
Cut a long length of thinnest gauge soft wire (at least 12 inches, you don’t want to run out). We are going to start at the top of the hoop and begin wire wrapping the thin wire around the hoop form, attaching one seed bead to our hoop form with every other wrap.
First, wrap the wire tightly at the top of one side (several revolutions) of the hoop to attach the wire to the hoop form. Next, thread a seed bead onto the wire, wrap around twice to hold the seed bead into place on the top outside of the hoop (hold it in place with your fingers while wrapping). Pull the wire tight, and “eyeball it” to determine how far apart you want your beads to be. This is totally a design decision—depending on how tightly you bunch the seed beads together, you can have more or less beads in your design. However—pay attention to the bottom third of the hoop because you must have an uneven number of loops to attach your beaded fringe. More on this in a second…read to the bottom of this step before beginning.
So again, the steps are, attach one seed bead, wrap the wire through and around twice (while holding seed bead in place with fingers), and attach the next seed bead, wrap twice…and so on.
Don’t worry if you have to start over a couple of times with new wire—the goal is to get uniform wraps, spaced evenly so you have the same number of beads on each earring. I strongly suggest you make both earrings at the same time for this reason—you can get this part out of the way and you are more likely to wrap them the same way in one sitting.
At the bottom third of the earring is where you will attach your beads. In order to do this you need to create loops, or spaces, between the thin wire and the wire form hoop. So, eyeball it (or measure and mark it) and when you get to the lower third part of the form where you want to attach your drop beads, start threading two seed beads onto the wire, and make a larger loop with your fingers when wrapping, allowing a gap so you will be able to thread and attach your drop beads in a later step. The reason we are attaching two seed beads instead of one is we will attach the drop beads right in the center of the two seed beads. You need an UNEVEN number of drops for a symmetrical earring with one drop in the center. I ended up with nine loops on the bottom to attach my drop beads.
Just keep an eye on the bead and loop spacing so your earring ends up uniform and looks the same on either side. One you get done with the nine drop hoops on the lower third of the earring, return to threading only one seed bead, and work your way back up the other side of the hoop form, to the top where you will wrap your wire tightly in several revolutions and cut off the end. This is the most challenging part of making this earring, so congratulations, you have that done! Now onto the fun…and…tedious part. Making all of the drop beads and fringe!
At this point your hoop may have lost some of its round shape. No worries, just slide it back onto your bottle to reform it back into a round shape. You can do this as often as you need to until we get to the step where we attach the center inside cross wire and beads.
Create all of the drops and fringe beads
Now you’ll want to create an assembly line and craft all of the drop beads and fringe for both earrings. While you could use head pins to attach all of the beaded fringe, to save money I just used my plain soft gold wire, which I fold over on the ends with round pliers and pinch loop tight to hold my seed beads in place. This is your choice, if you want to use headpins you will need three headpins per drop bead to attach three “fringe” sections to each one (72 headpins total).
Make the bead drop wire forms
Cut 24 lengths of gold wire (about 1.5 inches long), and create a closed loop on the bottom of each with round nose pliers. These will become the citrine and crystal bead drops, and at the bottom of each drop you will attach a beaded fringe. Don’t attach the citrine and crystal beads yet as it is easier to attach all the fringe first, then attach the beads to the earrings.
Make the fringe wires
Cut 72, 1 inch lengths of gold wire (unless you are using head pins) and loop over and pinch the wire on the bottom to hold seed beads in place so they don’t fall off. This is an inexpensive way to make your own “head pins”. I actually like the look of the added gold wire at the bottom of each bead, but if you want a neater more finished appearance, use head pins instead.
Make the beaded fringe
Let’s make the fringe. We will attach three beaded fringes to each bead drop. Using your seed beads, slide two beads onto the wire or headpin, then attach them to a bead drop form (bottom closed loop) using pliers. Do this again so you now have two, two-bead fringes attached to your bead drop. Slide three seed beads (use a different color on the bottom beed) onto the wire or headpin, and attach this one in the middle. This makes a 2-3-2 seed bead fringe “spray” on the bottom of each beaded drop.
Repeat this with all your wires until you have attached fringe to the bottom of all 24 bead drops.
TIP - This part will take a long time, so make sure you are in a comfortable chair, with good lighting (and maybe turn on the TV or stereo). Remember to take breaks every hour to fight fatigue and rest your eyes.
Attach center wire to hoop form
Now we will create the center wire “cross bar” for the three drop beads in the center of our hoop. This is a good time to make sure your forms are still round, so slide them back over your bottle form and round them out again one last time.
Cut a two inch length of your thicker gold wire. This is more wire than you need but you may need to adjust and make a few cuts, so give yourself the extra bit to save frustration. Make a round loop to hook the wire on the top side of the hoop form. Make a soft dip or rounded bend in the center of the wire using your fingers. You can make this rounded as much or as little as you want to. Line the other side up in the same place on the wire hoop form, and make another round loop to hook the wire on at that spot. Adjust the wire as needed to get the desired look, and repeat on the other earring. Cut off remaining wire ends and tuck in tightly.
This part is just a little challenging to get “just right”, but you’ll be done with it in just a few minutes!
Attach beaded drops and finish the earrings!
Now we are in the final stretch and the most satisfying part. Let’s attach all the bead drops to our earrings.
Slide one seed bead, one crystal or citrine bead, and one seed bead onto each wire. Attach the beads to the earrings (through the loops you created with the fine gold wire, making sure you go between the two seed beads) using closed wire loops to attach them so they don’t fall off. Follow my pattern below to alternate citrine and crystal beads in the design.
Top - Citrine, Crystal, Citrine
Bottom - Citrine, Crystal, Citrine Citrine, Crystal, Citrine, Citrine, Crystal, Citrine
Finally, attach the final crystal bead at the top, and attach the earring to your earring component with a round loop, and your stunning chandeliers are completed and ready to wear. Enjoy!
- needle nose pliers
- wire cutters
- copper or brass wire (available on Amazon)
- copper, brass, or gold-plated chain
Gather your materials. Make sure the gold tones you’ve got match or contrast sharply.
Write or print out the word you’ll be creating a wire pendant out of.
Then simply take your wire and hold it one end and “trace” your word with the end using your needle nose pliers.
Cut off at the end once your down and curl the end in a little bit. Then simply attach chain and you’re done!
Recipe for Jewelry Cleaner - 1
ammonia, 1/2 teaspoon
detergent, 2 tablespoons
water, 1 cup
Procedure: Take a cup of water in a bowl, add 1/2 teaspoon of ammonia and 2 tablespoons of detergent. Mix it properly and your jewelry cleaner is ready! Just be careful, when you add ammonia because it has a pungent odor.
Recipe for Jewelry Cleaner - 2
dish detergent, 1 tablespoon
salt, 1 tablespoon
baking soda, 1 teaspoon
water, 1 cup
Procedure: First, heat the water for two minutes. Pour it into a glass bowl. Add baking soda, salt and dish detergent. Mix well.
Tips to Clean Jewelry
Always use mild detergents and chemicals to clean your jewelry. Use plastic hand gloves, while cleaning the jewelry because some detergents might cause allergic reaction to your hands. You can even use a soft bristled toothbrush (preferably a used toothbrush) to clean the jewelry. Use 70% isopropyl alcohol to remove the oil and grease from the jewelry and then wash it with cold water. Avoid using any bleach or acid to clean the jewelry. Do not use the solution to clean gemstones. Dispose the jewelry cleaning solution after use, because its effectiveness decreases with time. Make a fresh cleaner for the next time.
Here’s a fun tutorial on how to make a message bangle that’s one-of-a-kind, done in the sun, waterproof and weatherproof. Even after several trips to the beach, it won’t fade or wash off! Essentially, it’s the Perfect Summer Bangle.
Used in this tutorial:
Prepare. All you’ll need for this project is a raw wooden bangle (we got ours from DIYBangles.com), a black paint marker, plastic wrap, and some Inkodye!
Transcribe. Write your message on a piece of plastic wrap big enough to wrap around your entire bangle.
Perfect. Carefully practice wrapping it around your bangle to see how it’ll look. Once your satisfied with your message, you can put the plastic wrap aside while you move onto the next step. It took us a few times to get the penmanship right!
Pour. Take the Inkodye color of your choice and pour it onto a plate or palet. You will need very little dye for this bangle, so don’t pour too much!
Brush. Cover the entire bangle with inkodye for a nice even shade. We also painted the inside to keep things easy.
Wipe. Make sure to remove all excess Inkodye and keep wiping until the bangle feels dry. This will prevent condensation inside the saran wrap when you place the bangle in the sun. And don’t worry about wiping too much—the Inkodye has already been absorbed into the wood.
Wrap. Take your plastic wrap and place your message wherever you want! Once you’re happy with the placement, pull the plastic wrap taut by gathering it towards the back of your bangle.
Tape. Take the gathered saran wrap and twist it towards the middle. Tape in place.
Expose. Bring your wrapped bangle out into the sun. The color will start to appear instantly!
Develop. Leave the bangle out for four minutes on each side. We recommend turning it front to back and flipping it upside down to ensure all areas develop fully.
Cut. Once it’s finished, bring the bangle inside and cut through the tape and saran wrap.
Reveal. Peel back the saran wrap to reveal your dyed message! Once all the plastic is removed, it’s ready to be washed.
Wash. We recommend preparing a very hot wash bath using dish washing detergent as soap. Let the bangle soak for at least 20 minutes, occasionally scrubbing the printed part with a brush or a sponge.
Enjoy. Flaunt your one-of-a-kind summer bangle and don’t forget to carpe diem!
Ok your done!
Cut 2 sets of 15 strands of embroidery thread, with each strand measuring four times the length of the bracelet. Knot the all the threads at the top, leaving about 2 inches of slack. Sandwich each set between a bobby pin – this will help you easily weave the threads through the links of the bracelet. Lay the threads to the left of the bracelet. Pull the first color (coral) from under the first link and over the top of the left side. (Click images to enlarge)
Lay the second color (blue) over the first color (coral). Pull the second color (blue) from under the same link and over the top left again. Repeat the steps, moving onto a new link: put the first color (coral) on top of the second color (blue) and pull it out from under the 2nd link and over the top left. Lay the second color (blue) on top of the first color (peach) and pull it out from under the 2nd link and over the top left again. Because the links of this particular bracelet are large, I wove the threads through twice on each link. If you are using a smaller linked bracelet, you should weave through each link once like this.
Repeat the steps until you reach the end of the bracelet. Finish it with a knot and trim the ends.
And here is theirs:
This one is a blast to do.
I went with a little darker colors than they did because I just fell in love with the fabric in the scarf I found.
Here’s your handy dandy tutorial!!
Cut out your fabric – you need a 33″ x 12″ piece. I recommend you cut it out on the bias if you have enough fabric. It helps it lay nicer.
(The bias is a 45 degree angle from the selvage. It’s basically a diagonal cut.)
You can see that my fabric was pretty sheer. If yours is a thicker fabric you might want to cut down on the width of your rectangle. Try bunching it up. If it is pretty thick, I’d recommend a narrower rectangle.
With right sides together, sew the rectangle into a long tube. Turn right side out.
Turn the raw edges under and overlap them, making a circle. Sew. I did two rows of stitching to make sure it would hold.
It helps to lay out your circle in a necklace shape. Put the seam on the left, towards the top. Place a pin on the right side of the circle, about 1″ above the point across from the seam. That is where we will start wrapping.
Double up your chain so it is 2 yards long. You will work with the chain doubled as you go – treating it as one chain.
Begin with the halfway point.
Leaving that halfway point with a little space, wrap the chain around the fabric tube twice. Feed the other ends of the doubled chain through the halfway point loop and pull. Don’t pull super tight – you don’t want to stress the chain – but so that it is snug against the fabric.
Lay the chain along the fabric for about an inch. Hold the chain at that point. Wrap the chain around the fabric tube. Bring the ends up and run them under the wrapped part and pull snug.
Here is a handy arrow drawing to illustrate. Don’t laugh.
Continue wrapping and looping around the bottom of the fabric tube. Keep the distance between loops the same, except for over the stitching line. That can be a bit longer.
When you get just above the stitching, wrap the chain around the tube four times.
Sew down the end of your chains.
If you have chain leftover, trim it off.
Fold in half your two small contrasting chain pieces.
Sew the folded ends to the fabric tube at the top of your wrapped chain on the left side.
Sew on your large beaded pieces on the left side, making sure you cover up the seam. If you are using pins, you can just pin them on, but I’d recommend sewing these on as well, for stability.
1. Cut the images to be slightly bigger than the scrabble tile. Glue on either using glue or diamond glaze. Leave to dry.
2. Using a pen-knife cut off the excess paper. This will give a clean edge
3. To give a glassy glaze and to waterproof apply a coat of diamond glaze. Read our tutorial on creating picture charms to read some tips on using Diamond Glaze. Allow to try for 24-48 hours.
4. Glue on your bails. If you are using super glue work fast. For a more professional glue use E6000 (use somewhere that is well ventilated). If you want to create a connector use two bails on opposite sides.
5. Attach to chains or add to jewellery.
Place the marbles in the frying pan. I used a non-stick pan, but I don’t think it matters as there’s nothing sticky that will ruin your pan. Turn the heat to medium high.
Fry the marbles, stirring a lot. I wouldn’t say “stir constantly,” but you want to keep them moving so that they don’t heat up too much in one spot. Fry them for 15-20 minutes.
While the marbles are frying, or you before you start, fill up a large pot with cold water and lots of ice.
When finished frying the marbles, immediately pour them into the ice water. The marbles will shatter on the inside while retaining their round shape on the outside. It resembles shimmering glass.
Buy some pre-assembled wire bead cages. There are many online sources and can also be found at any craft or beading store. Thread a chain, ribbon, or cord through the bead cage. Then, insert your fried marble by pushing open the middle of the cage and popping the marble into the cage. The bead cage will spring right back to it’s original shape. Wear and enjoy!